Jazz music wafted through the air as a parade of people braved the cold in Eugene’s Whitaker neighborhood on a foggy winter night in 2009. They gathered to mourn the loss and celebrate the life of Theodore “Ted” Lee, otherwise known affectionately as “Papa.”
When the restaurant opened its doors in 2006, Lee’s mission was clear. He was there to not “make a million dollars, [but] here to fill a million bellies,” his wife Deborah explained.
Deborah had taken over the restaurant when Lee passed away at the age of 43 from complications due to asthma, until officially closing the doors in 2017.
Memories, staffing issues, and the desire to move on had ultimately led to her difficult decision. In a Facebook post Deborah expressed her gratitude and reasoning.
“As I take the next step in my life, I want to thank you all for the years of support and kindness you’ve shown me. I will forever be grateful for the Soul Kitchen and for you.”
News of the closure sent ripples through the community. Papa’s Soul Food was more than just a restaurant known for its Southern-style comfort food and charm — it was a gathering place and a beacon for many in the Whitaker to feel at home. Offering not only home-cooked food made with love and passion, but Papa’s Soul Food also catered to another feast of the senses: music.
Toward the end of Lee’s life, music had started to become more of his focus. His love of the delta blues rivaled his love of good food and he often played the washboard or percussion with his band on the stage of the restaurant and other local venues. His original band carried a nearly identical moniker as his restaurant. Known as Papa’s Soul Kitchen, the band’s members also included hip-hop and rap musician Marv Ellis.
While there are those who remember and hold a special relationship to Papa’s Soul Food, Deborah expressed how important it is for her to keep Lee’s story alive for the younger generations.
In his legacy, she expressed her wish for the public who may have never known of him or of his restaurant. “If you see a hole in the community or something you can bring that’s unique to you, don’t be afraid to bring it.”
